Pourpoint

With the recent acquisition of my new spring steel leg armour, I decided to revisit how I attach my legs to the rest of my kit. Previously, I've had a wide, shaped belt that I attached my leg armour to and also my groin protection.

One of the problems with this set up was that the weight of the legs tended to pull the belt forward, which resulted in the belt riding up to the small of my back and tilting my pelvis forward. Not very comfortable and was causing pain in my lower back.

I'd seen the pourpoint that Count Sir Stephen uses to point his leg armour to and decided that this would probably be a better option than an arming belt.

Here is the pattern I made:

Back piece on the left. Front piece on the right. I have had to make further adjustments on this as the back piece flares too much at the side and centre seam. It needs to come down more straight like the front piece does.

My pourpoint is made from two layers of linen. As it is going to be laced snug, I reinforced edge where the eyelets go with a strip of canvas that is sewn to one layer of linen, then sandwiched between the two layers.

And here is the final product on me with the leg armour attached.

The pourpoint stretched a bit after the first time I wore it to training. This turned out to be a good thing as I had forgotten to pattern the pourpoint over my groin protection. After ditching my old arming belt, I needed to get new groin protection and decided to just get a commercial martial arts groin guard. Fortunately the pourpoint still accommodates the groin guard. For future pourpoints, I think a tighter weave of linen may reduce the amount of stretch. I'm not sure of the thread count of the linen I used, but it feels a bit looser in weave than other linens I've used.

I thought about how to reinforce where the legs are pointed to the pourpoint and I know Stephen has a square of leather sewn to his pourpoint. As I wanted to be able to throw this pourpoint through the wash, I decided to use canvas covered with the same linen as the pourpoint. The attachment points are slightly hourglass shaped when flat, then folded in half and the top square sewn firmly to the pourpoint, with the tapering section forming a loop that I feed the laces of my leg armour through, as shown below.

I'm still getting the exact pointing right. On the first wearing, the legs "dropped" about an inch so I had to adjust where the laces attach to the legs. I'll probably have to unpick the attachment point on the pourpoint and adjust it at some point. I do want make a set of chausses and point them to the pourpoint as well, so that might be the time to revisit the attachment points.

On the whole though, it is incredibly comfortable. It fits snugly from under the bust down to my hips. It distributes the weight evenly and I don't feel like I'm being "pulled" in any direction, in fact I feel like I've actually got some more support in my lower back. I can swing my arms around and the lower part doesn't budge.

Plus as some have already commented, it looks dead sexy :)

Silk Banner Success

Well after my first foray into painted silk banners was a bit of a disaster, I finally can say I have silk banner success.

I've had the second banner painted up, ready for steaming for nearly a year, but hadn't been game enough to steam it until I figured out what exactly I was meant to do. Then I saw MoG was selling a bunch of silk banner painting supplies, including a steaming chest, so I decided it was time to get back into this silk banner gig.

What I know now is that despite being called "steam fix dyes", the main thing is to heat the dye to a really high temperature (i.e. that of steam), but not let any moisture touch the dye at all. The dye does not need to be in contact with the steam in order to be fixed. I know I'm being pedantic, but I really wish they'd state that explicitly on the damn bottle of dye.

Anyway, on to the pics:

This is the steaming chest. The silk banner was laid out on brown paper and rolled very tightly around the rod, taped at the ends to seal, then the rod sits suspended in the chest. Water is poured into the chest beforehand and we had two little butane burners going underneath. Important note: position the burners so you can easily refill the cartridges when they run out without having to try and lift a really hot chest.

Here is the chest with the lid on. The lid originally didn't have a handle to lift it. It has since been Blayneyed.

The moment of truth, part 1 - the unrolling of the banner after 3 hours of steaming. Note the lack of tie-dye of effect.

The next stage is washing out the excess dye. MoG had some "silk wash" made from Lux in the box of stuff I got from him. I was a bit worried at this point as a LOT of dye came out in the washing. The picture above was the second wash. During the first wash the water went bright purple. I was very worried that my white bits would end up mauve.

However, the white remained white, as shown above. While a lot of excess dye came out, the dye was still quite firmly fixed on the banner where it should or shouldn't be.

Viola! One completed silk banner in action at May Crown. It fluttered beautifully in the breeze, however this made getting a clear photo a bit of a bugger, so a kind gentle gave us some assistance. I'm really happy with how it turned out. The colours are vibrant and the silk has remained soft and supple.

I'm now confident of doing many more banners and will be running some workshops locally after Flametree Ball to encourage people to have a go.

Cordials

A little while ago the steward of our upcoming Flametree Ball asked if I would consider making some cordial for the event. On the weekend, I found myself wondering what to do with three bags of oranges left over from the Festival Food Fund. So I made cordial and got a tad carried away.

First up, the orange cordial. Three bags of oranges were juiced, yielding a bit over 3 litres of juice (some of which got drunk as is). I used a 13th century Andalusian syrup recipe as the base. It is simply take equal volumes of juice and sugar and simmer until it forms a syrup.

Orange batch #1 - used 2 cups orange juice and 2 cups sugar. End result was okay, but really lacked that orange "tang".

Orange batch #2 - used 3 cups orange juice and 2 cups sugar. End result was a tad more "orangy", but not the right consistency.

Orange batch #3 - used 2 cups orange juice, 2 cups sugar, plus grated rind of 2 oranges. End result was great. Sweet and tangy.

Batches 1 and 2 were mixed together and reheated with grated rind to bring them up to scratch.

Since I was going to be making cordial anyway and it isn't that hard to do a few batches, I picked up some pomegranates to make a batch of pomegranate cordial. Simple equal volume juice and sugar mix. Unfortunately I got a bit distracted and it reduced a bit too much. It went a dark red-brown and tastes a bit caramelly. It would work very well as pomegranate syrup for cooking. Still okay as a cordial, but not as good as it would have been. I also had a bottle of red pomegranate juice in the fridge and decided to make cordial out of that. Definitely not as vibrant a flavour as the fresh stuff.

I also had some rosewater in the cupboard, so I made a batch of rose cordial using Mistress Rowan's recipe. I used a little of the fresh pomegranate juice as natural food colouring to give it a pink tinge.

Then I found frozen raspberries in the freezer, so into the blender they went (amusing that the first thing I use my new red blender for is to blend raspberries that are the same colour as the blender). Puree was sieved, mixed with equal volume sugar and heated to form a syrup. End result was a bit too thick, so I made up some sugar syrup and mixed it in. Perfect. Tastes like raspberry cordial heaven.

So all up, the weekend's efforts produced:

Left to right: Orange, Orange, Rose, Raspberry, Pomegranate, Pomegranate.

Not a bad effort really. Thirsty?

The Frock Wish List

Since my foray into Roman costume, I'm often met with surprise when I tell people that Roman isn't the sort of costume I'm really interested in. This then prompts the next question of what is it that I am interested in. Well here be the wish list of frocks I'd like to make. It is eclectic and spans a range of periods, regions and styles. This is intentional as my aim is to learn a wide variety of patterning and construction techniques, which you don't necessarily get if you stick to a single style.

From early on in the SCA, I developed a love of late 16th century Italian frocks, the style that has those beautiful overcoats.The ultimate frock of this style for me is the one above. Alessandro Allori's portrait of Marie de Medici. I managed to purchase some beautiful blue silk from Fabric Fantasy before they closed down. The main challenge with this frock are the fine details. The embroidered bands, the sleeves, the partlet etc.. I've seen a lot of bad reproductions of this frock so I'm determined not to add another poor reproduction. This is a long term project, so it is going to be a while before I seriously embark on this frock.

This is a simpler style and a frock I have already started. This is Giovanni Battista Moroni's Portrait of a Lady (Possibly Countessa Lucia Albani Avogadro). I originally made the under frock for Lochac's first Coronation. However, I then lost 4 inches from my waist, so it has been unpicked for a re-fit. I've selected different colours than the original portrait. The under frock is a dark blue wool with a satin finish and I have a teal green silk satin for the over dress. This one I hope to finish off this year.


Moving along to a different style, I would love to try one of these working class kirtles shown frequently in Rogier van der Weyden paintings.

And a Cranach for good measure. I like this slightly more conservative look, though I should learn how to puff'n'slash someday.

And some cotehardies and surcoats. The classic, late 14th, early 15th century french variety.

So that's a rough indication of the range of styles I'm interested in. As I actually get to work on some of these I hope to blog some pics. At some point I should probably catalogue the existing wardrobe, with the lessons learnt along the way.

And why aren't I at Rowany Festival right now? Well I was at Festival, but came home on Sunday with lungs full of fluid. So I'm blogging to avoid thinking about the fact that I'm home sick instead of being at Festival.

The 2007 project wrap up

I recently sat down with my project book to do a summary of what I managed to finish last year. Being the year of "finishing that bloody masters" there was less to report than 2006, but still I surprised myself with what I did manage to complete.

Projects completed in 2007:
- Watchcoat completed (buttons and buttonholes were the carry-over items from 2006)
- Second blackword cuff for Duchess Yolande completed (now if she can only find the first one...)
- Simple tunic dress and men's tunic for College hospit
- Red silk tunica (using yet another theory on tunica construction)

Projects abandoned:
- the 2nd pair of cut-work calcei. They were made from chrome tanned leather, which was just not working. I've since purchased some vegetable tanned leather and I'll have another go with that.

Teaching was also somewhat limited, but I did manage a few classes:
- Introduction to Roman Costume (Canterbury Faire)
- Entering Crown Tournaments (with Blayney and others, also at Canterbury Faire)
- Basic tunic making (for College Newcomers event)

This year I have a few main goals:
- make a decent block for myself and Blayney and learn how to pattern from a block
- learn some more construction techniques, especially hand sewing techniques
- try at least two different styles of garb that I haven't done before
- learn how to make a period style gambeson and chausses
- make at least two pairs of shoes of different styles
- teach some classes - so far I'm teaching part of the event class in Rowany, probably doing Introduction to Heraldic Display at Festival, and I'll probably do one or more of the collegia that the College kids are organising locally.

A lost dream found

Warning - some uncharacteristically personal and heartfelt words follow, that have nothing to do with shoes.



Last night at Rowany Yule, my consort, Thaddeus Blayney, joined the Order of Chivalry. The ceremony was beautiful and meaningful, and aside from the obvious joy of seeing my consort become a Knight of Lochac, it restored my faith in a dream that I thought was lost.

In the SCA we refer a lot to "the dream". The dream varies from person to person, but it is most often a shared vision of a society where we can pursue our interest in a time gone before while embracing the values of chivalry and courtesy. For me, the dream has always been about the magic that comes from that sincere belief in those values. Last night I remembered the first court I attended many years ago and how I was moved by the words of the Crown, by the sincerity of those swearing fealty, by the feeling of being a part of something that was great.

In the last couple of years, I've felt that dream eroding. I've watched my local group that I helped to found being consumed by petty squabbles, politics, egos, and general crap, while I myself was increasingly absorbed by mundane work and studies that left little time and energy to defend a dream. Having been freed from some mundane pressures recently, I felt my dream had been lost, eroded away by a constant battering, to the point that I began to doubt whether my dream was shared by anyone else.

This weekend, I found my dream again. It was (not surprisingly) right where I'd left it. It was there with those wonderful people I am fortunate enough to call friends, those who share the same dream I do.

It was there in the knighting ceremony, in all the glory that enchanted me many years ago.

The Ladies of the Rose who escorted us into court, symbolising the inspiration that consorts bring to their fighters. Duchess Yolande's beautiful words on the virtues of courtesy and grace that must be present in a Knight (and tight buns, thank you Countess Mathilde). They reminded me of the first time Blayney asked me to be his consort, the first coronet list he fought in.

Duke Sir Cornelius, who spoke of the virtues of prowess, chivalry and honour. It reminded me of the great acts of chivalry and prowess that I've witnessed on the field. Those heart-stopping moments in Crown finals.

Duke Sir Uther, who Blayney squired to many years ago, who spoke of the bond between Knight and Squire. His heartfelt words as he released Blayney from the oath of fealty between Knight and Squire. It reminded me of the 12th Night from hell, which in a bizarre twist ended with Blayney decided to ask Uther to take him as a squire. I remember Uther calling us up in court at Festival when he took Blayney as his squire, asking Gawain to be his foster knight in Lochac, and that sense of lineage as we were introduced to his grand-daddy knight Duke Sir Jade.

From the Chain of Champions - worn by many since the earliest days of the Society and from the hand of Blayney's squire brother Evandyr, recently knighted and Prince of the Mists - to the White Belt - worn by only one other, Sir Gawain, last Prince of Lochac, a dear friend whose memory still beats strong in our hearts as it surely does in those who were fortunate enough to know him. So many memories there, all of them inspiring.

And lastly, the floor-shaking, resounding huzzah from the populace as the newest Knight in Lochac was proclaimed. It reminded me more than anything that this dream is alive in so many people and that when the magic is there we cheer it loud and proud.

To have so many of our friends there to share this was wonderful. The hugs (and tears) were heartfelt and I honestly felt like I had come home to the SCA I love.

Talking to people afterwards it became clear to me that the SCA of my dream is shared by a great many. That it really is only a minority who take joy in cheapening and spoiling the magic. Even when we do get caught up in petty squabbles and politics, deep down, most of us play this game because we were enchanted by a dream.

The magic isn't always there. Australians are too good at lopping tall poppies down. We're embarrassed to be proud of each other, to embrace an ideal, so we downplay the magic. We "dumb down" the game and in doing that we loose the spark that attracted us to the SCA in the first place. We are too embarrassed to speak up and say "we believe in the magic". In the name of acceptance and tolerance, we sometimes allow in those who would mock and belittle the dream and these people will slowly erode the dream unless we can put aside our awkwardness and defend the dream that we believe in.

For me, I feel my faith in the SCA renewed. I've found my dream again and will strive to do what I can to focus things back on the magic that makes the SCA great and to defend that dream against those who would batter it down.

To those wonderful people who I am proud to call my friends, I thank you for being there this weekend (literally and figuratively) and I look forward to sharing the dream together for years to come.

In service to the dream.

You may call me Helga

Here be a quick selfy shot with the new wig.So what do you reckon? My initial impression is that it is too blonde, but then I'm use to seeing my own hair colour.

The front part forces the front sections forward, so I've pulled them back. Aside from colour, the style of wig will work for a number of the roman styles with a distinct centre part. Something a bit like these:

I've also done some work on the brown wig and the hot water straightening technique suggested by Myna has worked a treat. I'm still debating whether to try and dye the blonde hair using acrylic ink. I did find another long dark auburn wig fairly cheap online and bought that the other night. Hopefully it will turn up in the post soon (Australian supplier so should be fairly quick).

Wigstock

I will get to the UK shoe tour at some point, but I'm a lazy sod and the photos are on the other computer.

So back to other activities. Rowany Yule is fast approaching (Dec 8th). Mr B will be getting Knighted at Yule so the house has been a hive of pre-knighting ceremony prep. This has mostly involved experiments with Roman military costume such as creating a subermalis (worn between a tunica and lorica muculata), in particular trying to figure out how pterges were made. Current thoughts are woven strips and you can see some of Mr B's experiments with inkle loom weaving and combo inkle loom and tablets on his flickr site. He's in the progress of making a proto-subermalis for Yule itself using twill tape for pterges as we're not going to be able to weave enough strips in time.



With Mr B going Roman for Yule that means I'm dressing to match. I've decided it's time for another Roman experiment and plan to try out a few ideas for a tunica (which at present require a decent dry day where wet fabric will dry quickly, damn humidity and rain)



I also means I need a new hairstyle. I have short hair, so when I do Roman, I wear a wig. My poor brown synthetic wig is starting to look a lot worse for wear. I've discovered that you can apply plenty of heat to synthetic hair to style in curls, but they are a bugger to unstyle. I'm currently typing this while on a break from the tedious job of untangling and straighting the wig so I can re-style it. This involves a lot of Johnson & Johnson baby untangle hair spray (Thanks to a tip from Mistress Portia, this is working a treat), a wide tooth comb, a straightening iron and a lot of swearing. It is losing handfuls of hair all over the place so I think this next styling will be it's last.

On the plus side, I bought a new wig. I finally found one that doesn't have a fringe. The downside is it is nordic blonde, which I'm not entirely sure I can pull off (at least not without Mr B calling me Helga). I wonder if you can dye synthetic wigs? Anyone got any suggestions on this? (Myna - are you out there?)

Back to the biff

I know this my A&S blog and I've been absent for a while, but the thing I've been looking forward to the most after exams has been getting back into biff.

So after no fighting since February, last night I unearthed the armour bag from the garage. Dusted off my gear (LOTS of dust). I got Mr B to fix the new bascinet I bought late last year, but hadn't actually gotten to wear yet. It needed the camail sorted so I could actually get the helm over my head.

Tonight I was all primed to go to Fighter practice when the heavens opened and we had a lovely spot of thunder, lightning and rain. Not to be dissuaded easily, Mr B and I put on our kits and had a spot of biff in the backyard in the rain.

And damn it felt GOOD!

Stepping Through Time - Out in Paperback

I just found Stepping Through Time available in paperback from Oxbow Books in the UK for 25 pounds! This book is a must have for the serious period shoe aficionado.

For those who haven't encountered this gem:

Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz, Carol van Driel-Murray and Willy Groenman-van Waateringe

Drawing on 25 years' experience as a conservator of leather, Goubitz presents a typological catalogue of footwear dating from 800-1800 AD. The study is based on Goubitz' analysis of an important assemblage of shoes recovered from excavations at Dordrecht in the Netherlands but the volume's aim is to offer guidance for the identification of shoes found on sites across north-western Europe. In addition, contributions from van Driel-Murray and Groenman-van Waateringe examine evidence for shoe types in prehistoric Europe and the north-western provinces of the Roman Empire, periods which inevitably have left less evidence. The fully illustrated catalogue follows a comprehensive discussion of shoes styles and technology including height standards, iconography, material, patterns, stitches, soles, the identification and dating of fragments and conservation. The volume should prove a useful tool for Roman and, especially, medieval historians and archaeologists.

I've spent many happy moments perusing Duchess D's hard back copy. The hard back was pretty pricey and damn near impossible to get your hands on. The paperback at 25 pounds is serious cause for celebration.*

*I am prepared to admit that this may have been available for ages and I'm just slow on the uptake due to the lack of contact with the real world while I've been studying (which I'm still meant to be doing...I just get distracted by books).